Ravensbourne Denim Project Winners on Their Brands
The Ravensbourne Denim Innovation Project, in partnership with denim trade show Kingpins, turned its attention to sustainability this year.
From October to January, students worked in groups to create a denim brand from scratch, with support from industry sponsors including mills and manufacturers. At the end of the process, the teams were judged by a panel of about 40 industry experts, and winners were chosen in six categories.
Here, students from three of the six winning teams share the story behind their creations and their aspirations.
Epicenity: Most Market Ready
The name Epicenity comes from “epicene,” which describes words that aren’t gendered. The group’s designs are similarly gender agnostic with inspirations pulled from augmented reality and CGI. Epicenity chose Candiani fabric with 50 percent recycled cotton and 50 percent TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™, allowing the brand to avoid virgin cotton. Connecting consumers to their garments, Epicenity gives them a product passport at purchase with a QR code that shares information about the supply chain that made their clothes. Repair and upcycling services encourage them to hold onto pieces for longer, and recycling recirculates jeans at end of life.
Alessia Magnani from Epicenity shares an inside look at her team’s work.
Carved in Blue: Why do you think your design won? What was the winning edge?
Alessia: Our brand was the result of hard and very well coordinated group work. This has transpired throughout our proposals and brand presentations, which demonstrated a clear vision and cohesive brand concept in both the clothing design and branding aspect of it. That being said, I think that having a strong ethos and branding is essential in today’s industry, and it’s one of the main reasons why our group won the market ready award.
Carved in Blue: What social or environmental impact do you think is critical in your design?
Alessia: We had the chance to work with one of the most innovative fabrics within the sustainable denim industry—Re-Gen sponsored by Candiani Denim—meaning that the fabric itself was a critical element to bring forward to our proposal. We were able to create designs which not only expressed unisex silhouettes promoting their longevity and multi-use, but further promoted a positive image of inclusivity for our label.
Carved in Blue: What are your aspirations to work in the industry? What company do you want to join?
Alessia: Having progressed through my course with an open mind since the start, I have been exposed to many sectors of the industry. That being said, I am open to any role which gives me an opportunity in this creative industry. However, I do believe that the company for which I will work needs to have a certain ethical base and sustainability intent.
Marina Denim: Best Collaboration
Marina Denim is focused on the sea, and more specifically fashion’s impact on marine environments. The brand concept supports Plastic Oceans Foundation through ongoing donations from its sales. In service of tackling plastic waste, the collection uses fabric from Artistic Fabric Mills that has part recycled content and removeable buttons from YKK. Eco-friendly finishes by Jeanologia resemble oceanic motifs.
Amy Powell from Marina Denim spoke to us about her group’s brand.
Carved in Blue: Why do you think your design won? What was the winning edge?
Amy: My group, Marina Denim, won the category for Best Collaboration for our work with our collaborators Artistic Fabric Mills and Jeanologia. I think it was clear to the judges of the show that our group worked hard to incorporate what was important to our collaborative partners in our designs and research. The main focus of Marina Denim from the beginning was to incorporate ocean life and conservation. So when it came to pitching, we knew who we wanted to work with, especially as the Jeanologia technology could help us create our lasered designs in a more ocean-conscious way. I think we showed our consideration for the topic well through our design works and produced successful outcomes despite the difficulties our group faced because of the current restrictions.
Carved in Blue: What social or environmental impact do you think is critical in your design?
Amy: From the pre-research phase of the Denim Project, plastic waste and its effect on the ocean was a theme my group quickly identified. After researching further into denim and just how bad the industry’s effect is for the ocean, my group knew it was important our brand tackled this. We focused not only our collection around ocean-influenced shapes and textures, but also the ethos of our brand. We partnered our brand with Plastic Oceans Foundation and aligned our brand ethos with goals 12 and 14 of the U.N. Sustainable Development Goals in order to have a bigger impact on our environment as a collective.
Carved in Blue: What are your aspirations to work in the industry? What company do you want to join?
Amy: My personal aspirations for my future working in the industry is to be able to work for a brand where I can reach my full creative potential while also knowing that I’m helping the world around me, even if only to a small degree. Brands like Stella McCartney, Story mfg and Bode appeal to me for their different approaches to sustainable design and practices. I’d be interested in working with these kinds of brands in the future.
Neo No No: Best Design Collection
The designs in Neo No No’s collection are intended to be shared between a couple, creating a “love triangle” with fashion. The apparel breaks down gender stereotypes with classic silhouettes and timeless details such as pinstripes. Neo No No made sustainability a priority, with denim fabric from Prosperity Textile that includes 19 percent post-consumer cotton, biodegradable packaging, repair services and recycling incentives encouraging customers to bring back their jeans at end of life.
Paola Ramos Contreras from team Neo No No explained her team’s winning designs.
Carved in Blue: Why do you think your design won? What was the winning edge?
Paola: I believe the reason my design won is because of its “tongue on cheek” approach to what denim means to a contemporary wearer. It’s intimate. Every stretch, stain and tear carries a story. The way the kiss print is hidden unless you put your arms up, or the way the pinstripes spell “Neo no no” once the jacket is taken off. The condom embossed on the pocket plays with the concept of blind trust, but it also brings awareness to our community on the importance of sex education and mental health.
Carved in Blue: What social or environmental impact do you think is critical in your design?
Paola: Intimacy. The idea of a garment being shared between lovers, finding an object on a pocket from your partner or feeling their body shape in the garment is very exciting for me. But also, as a women’s wear designer, working with unisex silhouettes allows for the garment not to only be sharable and versatile, but also to create less waste in the pattern cutting process.
Carved in Blue: What are your aspirations to work in the industry? What company do you want to join?
Paola: Coming from a self-made father, I aspire to have my own brand. As a Latin women, I would love to give women opportunities to dream and express themselves, to think beyond the sexism lived in Mexico.
I would love to join brands such as Ashley Williams, Christopher Kane and Molly Goddard to expand my knowledge.