SDW Students: Betina Grosser Martins
As part of the Sustainable Denim Wardrobe collection, Jeanologia has been tapping into the younger generation with its Softwear Project, enlisting university students to create designs for the collection.
Carved in Blue is catching up with some of the participants to learn about their experiences, and here we check in with Betina Grosser Martins, a sustainable fashion designer focused on emotional connection and durability. As a Jeanologia intern, Betina has also been involved with the Hardwear component of SDW.
Carved in Blue: Why sustainable fashion?
Betina: After working a few years in the traditional fashion industry, I felt highly disconnected with the values and the philosophy it fosters. I was concerned about the future and about people—how much they suffer throughout the chain. I have decided to deepen my knowledge on sustainability, and there is no turning back. I believe there is no other future for us but a sustainable one.
Carved in Blue: Tell us about your project’s concept.
Betina: The main goal of the project is exposing the bad working conditions on the traditional fashion industry, mainly in the denim finishing processes. I understood that “we are the future” when I learned that sweatshops were already a reality back in the early 1900s in New York City. So I’ve borrowed the cyberpunk motto “High tech, low life” to express how contradictory it is having this much progress and technology while so many people have to keep exposing themselves to hazardous environments every day.
Carved in Blue: What is most important to today’s textile design students?
Betina: For me, the most important thing is to develop innovative materials, processes and actions that will support a more sustainable and circular industry. I believe we can only achieve that by joining forces with different fields, with customers and by sharing information.
Carved in Blue: What are some of the biggest struggles for today’s young designers?
Betina: To get access to new technologies and innovative materials. Also, to enter the market, either by working in a company or by creating your own. The experience required even for entry-level positions is sometimes high. In addition, our generation doesn’t seem to fit in the traditional business models and working dynamics we still see in the industry.
Carved in Blue: What are some of the most interesting sources of inspiration for design students?
Betina: Individuality. Bottom-up trends that we democratically help to create and foster through our social media bubble. We have the opportunity to explore freely our own interests and values through online knowledge access and small communities of creation.
Carved in Blue: Are students generally optimistic or pessimistic about the future of denim?
Betina: I would say that generally students don’t think about denim. The denim industry is usually kept apart from study programs, and because of that students don’t get to understand it deeply. They know it has a huge negative impact, but don’t quite know about the processes and why exactly they are harmful. By not having this information, it’s hard to recognize the great initiatives that are taking place and also what roles we can take to help changing it.
With the experience I have right now after my internship in Jeanologia, I feel really optimistic about where this industry is leading to. But before that, without knowing about all the positive impacts of technology on garment finishing processes, I felt overwhelmed.
Carved in Blue: Could you see yourself pursuing a job in the denim industry and why?
Betina: Sure! I think one of the biggest revolutions of the industry is happening right now, and with transformations come opportunities as well.
Carved in Blue: What were your thoughts on participating in the Sustainable Denim Wardrobe collaboration?
Betina: I was very excited about sharing my values and ideas with two companies that are working together to change this industry.
Carved in Blue: Where is your favorite city to visit for inspiration?
Betina: I like to search for inspiration wherever I go.
Carved in Blue: Bootcut or flares / Straight cut or skinny?
Betina: As a designer, I might say all of them. The fit helps to express a concept and to define who is this person who’s going to wear my creation. Personally, I love straight cuts, high-rise!
Carved in Blue: What does Carved in Blue mean to you?
Betina: For me, it means something or someone that is deeply connected to or has roots in the denim history.