SDW22 Lookbook: Straight 50s Jean 1
The selvedge denim fabric used to make this jean comes from iconic Japanese mill Kaihara. Founded in Japan in 1893, the denim business was later established by Sukejiro Kaihara in 1951. Today, Kaihara is the largest supplier of denim in Japan, and one of the most recognizable names in denim production in the world.
Regarding the origins of selvedge denim, Cone Mills White Oak factory in North Carolina started supplying fabric for the Levi’s 501 jeans in 1915. Around 1927, they incorporated a red thread in the selvedge of the “extra durable” XX-fabric. It made it easy for the mill to identify various rolls of fabric. It also had the added bonus of being recognized by the general public as a Levi’s pair of jeans, who associated them with quality and durability.
Selvedge colors are used by some mils as a signature. Colored lines on the outside edge are called Selvedge I.D.s as they used to indicate which mill produced the denim. As mentioned, Cone Mills had a red I.D., whereas Amoskeag Mills up in New Hampshire had a green I.D. Nowadays, most selvedge I.D.s are used purely for decorative and ornamental purposes. The selvedge on the Kaihara fabric is primarily black.
The 2017 closure of the Greensboro White Oak denim plant left a void for brands built on replicating authentic vintage designs, including Levi’s vintage clothing. For the first time, the brand sourced its selvedge denim from outside the U.S., choosing to partner with Kaihara.
The straight-leg jeans are one of the core fits for men and women. Cuffed just above the ankle, these jeans are finished in a mid-wash complimented by rich high and lows on the seams. They are the perfect example of a seasonless and commercial style that combines authenticity and an effortless look. The 12 oz. 3×1 right-hand twill base made from a cotton/TENCELTM Lyocell blend is a perfect unisex fabric.
These jeans have been finished using laser and G2 ozone by Jeanologia, through the revolutionary Atmospheric process, which combines g2 ozone and eFlow technology to achieve the look of traditional stone wash, but without using pumice stones with all that it implies in terms of environmental footprint.
Fabric: MD5412-A REGULAR | Mill: Bossa
Composition: 40% TENCEL™ X Refibra, 40% recycled cotton, 20% hemp
3×1 RHT | 13.75 Oz
LSF score: 58
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