SM Denim Spotlights Pakistan’s Artisan Textile Tradition
Sometimes the best sustainable inspiration comes from tradition. Karachi, Pakistan-based mill SM Denim recently partnered with artisans in Hala, Pakistan who practice hand weaving and block printing using ancient, low-impact techniques.
Located in the Sindh province, Hala is a hotspot for traditional crafts. In addition to hand textile work, there are creators who specialize in glazed pottery, art and woodworking. This region and the craftspeople who call it home were heavily affected by the devastating floods in Pakistan in 2022, which covered a third of the country’s land.
In the aftermath of the floods, SM Denim visited the textile creators and collaborated with them to create denim garments that showcase their skills. Carved in Blue chatted with SM Denim about the idea behind this project and the importance of protecting this craft heritage in Pakistan.
Carved in Blue: Why did SM Denim decide to spotlight the artisans of Hala? What makes this local craft so special?
SM Denim: This was a purposeful decision to spotlight Hala’s 5,000-year-old craft and birthplace of indigo dyeing, especially due to the denim community’s movement to natural and sustainable products. We are genuinely looking for some solutions to add to our responsible factory operations, so naturally Hala came to our mind and we decided to showcase the very talented artisan and immensely productive land for natural indigo and vegetable dyeing plantations. The skillset and the perfection of these artisans, along with the sustainable touch, makes this place and its people so special.
Carved in Blue: How did this collaboration come together?
SM Denim: SMD has a diverse group of design and product development individuals who are looking for something new and creative all the time. The group came up with the concept and initiated contact with the local individuals who are creating this art for local sales. Our design and product teams visited Hala for several days, which is approximately a four-hour drive from Karachi’s metropolitan city. We spent some quality time together with the local artisans and tried to understand their problems, economics and commercial needs, and thus highlighted them in a video, naturally with their permission.
Carved in Blue: Could you share some details about the garments that you produced together?
SM Denim: We made the garments in organic cotton along with 20 percent post-industrial waste fabric. For the stretch portion, the fabric has eco Lycra. We garment dyed it using natural indigo with natural additives. It was also printed using the block printing technique with natural dye used as the printing base. The fascinating results were presented in Kingpins Amsterdam in April.
Carved in Blue: What were some of your biggest takeaways from your trip to Hala? Since learning more about traditional indigo craft, how has this factored into SM Denim’s own production?
SM Denim: We, as a professional denim mill, believe that this trip has not only given us a new view about sustainability as a process, but also enabled us to think about commercial development of this region for producing natural indigo at commercial stages for the world to know and use. We hope this video and products set a platform for brands all over the world to return to basics and take interest in the region’s capacity to produce dye and to make garments at a commercial level. This will help this flood-hit area to recover economically from their woes and at the same time provide multiple jobs and commercial opportunity for Pakistan and especially to Hala for their many exports. It’s an environmentally and socially responsible way as a business solution, integrated at the very base of every brand DNA, in their focus on how to move forward more responsibly.
Carved in Blue: What can traditional indigo dyeing methods teach the modern denim industry about sustainability?
SM Denim: Most of the time, it’s price that dictates the fashion market these days, and thus comes the limitation for the region to produce these dyes at economical rates. In these areas, it’s the absence of modern tech and machinery for their plantations, their harvesting and thus conversion of the product into a production-friendly state. However, once the economy of scales are achieved using modern production practices, the prices are sure to come down to lower levels, making it viable for mass production of dyes and ultimately being used in competitive fashion. We encourage modern denim industry suppliers to come together to think about supporting this region while maintaining its uniqueness. The talent and the fertility in these areas provides potential to modern production interests to create more sustainable and responsible solutions.
Carved in Blue: Following the flooding in Pakistan, why is it crucial to protect the nation’s artistic heritage?
SM Denim: The floods have hit Pakistan in the worst possible way, and the country is at the receiving end of the pollution created by the world together, despite only contributing approximately 2 percent of the total impact. Pakistan, with its economic woes, is in dire straits and unable to support and cater to the large-scale catastrophe and devastation caused by these recent floods. However, the government has made a plan to start from the most vulnerable areas, in which Hala sits. The government of Pakistan with its resources and with foreign aid is focused on rebuilding homes, infrastructure and capacity of the villages and towns, which were completely wiped off. Pakistan also needs the help of our international partners to focus on rebuilding efforts. Our intention of making this video is also focused on highlighting the plight of the people located in these ancient areas, which have such a rich heritage that is important to all in our country.