TENCEL™ Denim Trends: The Latest from Mills in Pakistan
Since in-person trade shows are still put on hold, Carved in Blue is taking an opportunity to digitally connect with its community.
Conventional denim has a significant environmental footprint, but mills are innovating to create materials with less impact. This includes switching to cotton alternatives or blends that include more eco-friendly fibers.
We caught up with denim mills in Pakistan to hear their thoughts on low-impact denim and how they are incorporating wood-based TENCEL™ branded fibers into their collections.
AGI DENIM
Pakistan
Ali Tekin, R&D director
Carved in Blue: What new groups are you promoting with TENCEL™ fibers?
Ali: With features like high-end look (premium smoothness), softness and breathability, we know that TENCEL™ Lyocell has always to be in our line. For different perspectives, we are using different TENCEL™ branded fibers such as TENCEL™ Lyocell, TENCEL™ Modal and even TENCEL™ Modal Black to get permanent color. We are using TENCEL™ Lyocell to get more smooth, more high-end looking denim together with superior drape.
Also, we are using TENCEL™ Modal to get natural softness. By the way we create new athleisure-type items without losing soft handle with Black Modal denim. Main advantage here is additionally to perfect softness, we are getting permanent color, never faded black.
Carved in Blue: How do you define the value of lower impact denim?
Ali: We have to follow customer expectation, but at the same time we need to create circular solutions for the fashion industry. Lower impact denim is not a niche category anymore. Now it is one of our key points. We need to affect climate positively. We need to minimize use of natural resources. We need to reduce environmental impact.
ARTISTIC FABRIC MILLS
Pakistan
Farah Iqbal, director
Carved in Blue: What new groups are you promoting with TENCEL™?
Farah: Regeneration: AFM’s “Regeneration” uses TENCEL™ Lyocell, TENCEL™ Modal and TENCEL™ Modal Black, blended with AFM’s mechanically recycled yarn. Not only are some fabrics without virgin cotton, but for the purist authentic denim programs we have engineered upcycled yarn and TENCEL™ versions maintaining the same aesthetics. The fabrics in character feel lighter, cooler and more comfortable. The concentration is on seasonless and durable fabrics, so that people can wear these jeans in the warmer temperatures too. We have PFGD fabrics as well as pure indigo colors in this collection, in many different weights and constructions.
Carved in Blue: How do you define the value of lower impact denim?
Farah: The denim world has taken great strides in improving the carbon footprint, utilization of responsible machinery, use of toxic-free chemicals and saving of resources. Transparency and traceability have become very important. In the daily manufacturing practices, we are closing the loop on our operations as we launch fabrics that are circular and sustainable. At AFM, we can authentically exercise this as we have control over the supply chain, starting from recycling cotton waste, to spinning yarn, weaving fabrics and having a state-of-the-line green laundry, operational from October 2020.
“Premium quality and longevity of the circular denim product is the focus at AFM, so the end consumer has a conscious yet zero compromise denim to wear. The purpose is to give fabrics a second life and be thoughtful producers of low-impact denim.”
ARTISTIC MILLINERS
Pakistan
Ebru Ozaydin, senior vice president sales and marketing
Carved in Blue: What new groups are you promoting with TENCEL™?
Ebru: We are promoting TENCEL™ Lyocell, TENCEL™ Modal and TENCEL™ Modal Black in gender-neutral constructions/colors that give buttery soft handfeel. These fabrics use less water dyeing techniques and have laser-friendly shades. There are also blends with TENCEL™ and hemp.
Carved in Blue: How do you define the value of lower impact denim?
Ebru: Currently “low-impact denim” definition has a broader definition referring below topics to follow a circular model:
- Raw materials (sustainable fibers, recycled fibers, chemicals, dyestuff)
- Processing/manufacturing (water, energy, chemical saving smart processes: fabric and garment)
- Recycling/upcycling/waste management (fiber, water, chemical and effluent management)
- Resource saving technologies (water and energy)
- Social compliance (worker well-being, gender equality, diversion and inclusion, working environment)
- Certification (credible certifying bodies)
AZGARD NINE
Pakistan
Aamir Muhammad, deputy general manager
Carved in Blue: What new groups are you promoting with TENCEL™?
Aamir: We are promoting some new groups of articles using TENCEL™ fibers as below:
- New lightweight shirting fabric using TENCEL™ Lyocell
- Self-sized denim using TENCEL™ Lyocell
- Waxed denim (a new coating range) using TENCEL™ Lyocell
- TENCEL™ Modal Black denim group with excellent stretch and growth
Carved in Blue: How do you define the value of lower impact denim?
Aamir: Denim is the section of our wardrobe being held responsible for major environmental pollution. On contrary to other textile products, it employs more water during its lifecycle. More consumption of water results to more effluents and a load on water treatment plants. The global fashion industry produces 20 percent of world wastewater and 10 percent of global carbon emissions, so it is the need of the hour to reduce carbon footprints associated with denim production. For the said purpose, sustainability is being applied at each stage of its processing, from material sourcing to garment washing. We are working on different aspects like the use of FSC certified materials alternate to cotton, consuming less water and non-hazardous chemicals during fabric processing and garments washing.
CRESCENT BAHÜMAN
Pakistan
Rizwan Akbar, assistant vice president – marketing and R&D
Carved in Blue: What new groups are you promoting with TENCEL™?
Rizwan: Sustainability is a dogma for us. We are currently promoting Gaia (Mother earth) for our TENCEL™ Lyocell, TENCEL™ Modal and TENCEL™ Modal Black fabrics. It is a combination of sustainable fabrics.
Our concept group FLF (Flow Like Fluid) contains TENCEL™ Modal with DNA-fed softness, which last till the last usage of consumer. We believe it’s a perfect solution for eternal comfort.
Fabric concept “Stay Black” is exclusive concept for TENCEL™ Modal Black with enhanced softness. We believe in staying true to your core. The fabric color is durable and has no wash effects of bleach, detergents or soaps.
Carved in Blue: How do you define the value of lower impact denim?
Rizwan: Lower impact denim is a product which has minimal negative footprint on the planet. The prime focus is upon conservation of natural resources. Water is the most precious resource, and in low-impact denim, dyeing and finishing process are optimized to save water. Furthermore, no harmful chemicals are used for fabric finishes. The raw materials used are either sustainable or recycled. As we foresee, only such manufacturing is sustainable that does not distort circularity, nature’s cycle and resource conservation.
DIAMOND DENIM
Pakistan
Rizwan Hafeez, general manager marketing
Carved in Blue: What new groups are you promoting with TENCEL™?
Rizwan: We are promoting a group of fabrics called S3 having TENCEL™ fibers -cotton blended fabrics. S3 stands for soft, sheen and sustainable. This covers fabrics having ultra-smooth and soft handfeels, shiny indigo shades. TENCEL™ Lyocell has botanical origin and sustainable production and fabrics in this category are biodegradable.
Other categories having TENCEL™ Lyocell compositions are Shaper, Revival, Cosy and Zero Cotton.
Carved in Blue: How do you define the value of lower impact denim?
Rizwan: Lower impact denim is very important for Diamond. For us at Diamond Denim, it means high level of sustainability within fiber composition, yarn rope dyeing and finishing processes.
We produce yarns with 100 percent sustainable cotton and recycled polyester. We use special dyestuff in rope dyeing that requires less water and less chemicals for application. We use lasers in finishing, saving minimum 50 percent energy and water.
NAVEENA DENIM (NDL)
Pakistan
Rashid Iqbal, executive director
Carved in Blue: What new groups are you promoting with TENCEL™?
Rashid: We are working in TENCEL™ Lyocell, REFIBRA™ Technology, and TENCEL™ Modal Color and LENZING™ ECOVERO™ Viscose.
Carved in Blue: How do you define the value of lower impact denim?
Rashid: We feel sustainable practices and low-impact denim should be mandatory and every denim mill’s responsibility.
June 7, 2018 – According to a report by the International Monetary Fund (IMF), Pakistan ranks third in the world among countries facing acute water shortage.
Researchers predict that Pakistan is on its way to becoming the most water-stressed country in the region by the year 2040.
We at Naveena NDL put this on top priority and have taken initiatives to reduce water consumption. By using Ozone G2 Dynamic technology, where we are saving 75 percent water than conventional process.
NDM
Pakistan
Aydan Tüzün, executive director of global sales and marketing
Carved in Blue: What new groups are you promoting with TENCEL™?
Aydan: We use TENCEL™ Lyocell in Zevolution fabrics, mainly for men’s collections. The blends are 66.5 percent TENCEL™ Lyocell, 32.5 percent RP PES, 1 percent EL offered in indigo, blue/black, black, and black/black. We focused on 17 percent elasticity in 13.5 oz. fabrics.
We have added new fabrics incorporating TENCEL™ in:
- Our Cozy Blues line with new Fusion fabrics, a super soft denim thanks to a unique blend of fibers
- Our Science x The Blues line with Reflex, our four-way stretch fabrics
- Our Throwback Blues line with Marmotech, our marble look, high stretch fabrics.
We apply TENCEL™ Modal in our “Modal Black” fabrics with 60 percent elasticity in 13 oz.
Carved in Blue: How do you define the value of lower impact denim?
Aydan: Low-impact denim requires a transparent supply chain from the very beginning to the very end: sourcing the fibers, dyeing the fabric and using finishing treatments that do not compromise the desired look. The value of this process is that it gives everyone—from fiber production to end consumer—a need for a holistic view. We think that it is a part of an education and awareness process for all, which in turn demands an even lower impact denim.
NEELA BLUE
Pakistan
Umer Farooq, senior manager marketing and sales
Carved in Blue: What new groups are you promoting with TENCEL™?
Umer: Royal Denim Collection: luxe denim made with sophisticated approach.
Neela is pursuing a Purify+ concept with its Royal Denim Collection, working with TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal, with new dyeing technique Purify+ to save 90 percent water in dyeing and also pass on (LSF) Light Sensitive Fabric criteria of Jeanologia, the latter a new generation fiber derived from recycled cotton scraps and wood pulp.
We have completed capsule Royal Denim Super Soft Hand feel collection, which is fit in all categories—tops, bottoms and lightweight 6 oz. to heavyweight 15 oz. fabrics.
Carved in Blue: How do you define the value of lower impact denim?
Umer: Neela’s new low-impact denim collection concentrates on optimizing all three elements of denim production: fiber, finishing and fabric. This is achieved through groundbreaking new production methods, technologies and a transparent supply chain.
The fiber composition of the denim collection consists of organic cotton mixed with low-impact fiber TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal. We are using reducing agent to save water, the yarn dyeing process Purify+ has been shortened and now uses up to 90 percent less water compared to conventional denim dyeing processes to also support LSF.
SM
Pakistan
Bilal Ghauri, marketing manager
Carved in Blue: What new groups are you promoting with TENCEL™?
Bilal: We are introducing bi-stretch, shrink to fit, cotton-free and shirting weights up to 2.25 oz. fabrics in TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal.
Carved in Blue: How do you define the value of lower impact denim?
Bilal: It’s for all of us; it’s for the generations to come and it’s to preserve what we have as a place to live, Earth. It is the only place, which gives all 7 billion of us an identity and a shelter. With lower Impact processing and practices in denim business, we value it as utmost and our top-of-the-grid agenda. With all the new technologies available, it’s possible to create fashion and be responsible towards what we wear. As a manufacturer, we value the production and consumption of lower impact denim as imbedded in our DNA.
SOORTY
Pakistan
Eda Dikmen, marketing manager
Carved in Blue: What new groups are you promoting with TENCEL™?
Eda: We have a full cotton-free fabrics family under our container Circularity—the ultimate array of products engineered with the most responsible manufacturing methods and raw materials, where each and every article within is designed for purpose. This container is made to be future-proof for today’s conscious consumer who is needing less, caring more and coming together for the new age. The material resourcing has a huge impact on both the footprint and the lifecycle of the end-product designed. Within the cotton-free fabrics family, we have fabrics that are ideal for unisex and genderless looks, engineered with different blends of TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal, LENZING ™ ECOVERO™ Viscose, and REFIBRA™ Technology.
Another family of fabrics within our Circularity container, the Eco-Blends, is where we utilize nature’s gifts like hemp and linen. We have two articles here, which bring together the multiple benefits of hemp like soil regeneration, using a very little amount of water and no pesticides/chemicals at the farming stage, UV protection and antibacterial properties with TENCEL™ Lyocell to deliver wear comfort too. The two options have different constructions and one is a lightweight (6.25 oz.) article, while the other is slightly heavier (10 oz.), providing options to the wearer. We have another lightweight option (5.5 oz.), which has linen in the blend, making it the most ideal clothing option for hot summer days.
As the time we spend at home but behind our screens increased, the definition of well-being has changed dramatically. As meetings, social gatherings or seminars went behind applications and developments, we started seeking comfort even on our own sofa. Coming from there, we have designed a loungewear collection that is home to a wide array of products providing extreme comfort, cloud softness and a long-lasting freshness in style, utilizing responsible sources of TENCEL™ Lyocell and LENZING ™ ECOVERO™ Viscose.
Along with these fabric families, we have TENCEL™ blends spread through our entire collection including the two main containers:
- Nostalgia, where you can find the authentic, true denim looks that are designed to be the future vintage
- Lifestyle, which is designed for consumer groups with unique lifestyles and who need products with purpose and added value to cater their daily needs
Carved in Blue: How do you define the value of lower impact denim?
Eda: Sustainability is a very long journey, and you sometimes need to go inches to go miles. It takes dedication and commitment to reduce one’s environmental impact, and the results get only better when collective, when collaborative. This is why we have been, and will continue to do the best we can do to reduce our environmental footprint while leaving a positive mark on societies we serve, on our planet home, on our limited natural resources and on our industry. It is also why we have been inviting all denim stakeholders—from brands to end consumers, from suppliers to press, everyone—to join forces and discover future possibilities, to compete in doing good. We are one of the world’s largest vertically integrated denim companies, meaning we’re capable of offering everything from fiber to retail as well as all our actions coming with a big impact. Being well aware of ours, and our industry’s, influence on our days forward, we see endless possibilities to make things better. Looking from this angle, the low-impact denim is priceless.
The denim community is working hard to offer responsible solutions at all parts of the lifecycle of a product, to help transform the supply chain into a value chain; and we shall only continue doing so because sustainability not only means being environmentally conscious or providing ethical employee rights, it also means sustaining the business, the industry. The lower impact denim means our future.