Think This Is the Demise of Denim? Not So Fast
By Tricia Carey
Over my more than two decades in the apparel industry, I’ve seen the sales volume fluctuations between jeans and chinos give way to an alternation between jeans and leggings.
The past six months of COVID-19 have ushered in an increased desire for comfort and casualization, as “normal” business life ceased to exist and people began an isolated existence working from home.
With Zoom calls replacing in-person socializing and business meetings, suddenly getting dressed was only focused on the waist up.
In March, esteemed trend specialist Li Edelkoort predicted that people would be wearing knits for a sense of coziness, safety and security.
Since the stay at home orders began, numerous trend articles have been published sounding the death knell for denim, as jeans are traded in for sweatpants.
Market stats are also trending down. The value of denim imported to the U.S. in the first six months of 2020 was down 37 percent from the figures for the same period of 2019.
What is happening with denim? Disturbed by these articles proclaiming that jeans might be on the way out for good, I sought to find out if this beloved garment is really at risk of enduring a serious decline or simply poised for another period of reinvention.
I conducted a LinkedIn Survey, and out of the more than 100 people that responded, 80 percent believe that denim will stand the test of time, compared to just 20 percent that believe leggings are the pant of the future.
Below, hear what some of my friends in the denim world had to say. The execs featured hail from around the world with experience from 5 to 30 years.
Adam Taubenfligel, Triarchy Denim – USA
I think the desire to purchase more knits in a time when we’ve all been homebound makes a lot of sense, and I also think that when we’re no longer homebound we will look to something durable to accompany us on our adventures, and this will lovingly return us to our trusty companion denim.
Amrin Sachathep, Atlantic Mills – Thailand
Over the last two decades, we have seen a shift from denim which had a history of being rugged/industrial and tough towards a more snug/soft everyday wear. With the introduction of fibers like TENCEL™, we were able to adapt to a blend of the traditional denim look combined with softness. In the short-run, there will definitely be a shift towards a more comfortable athleisure product while many spend more time working from home. But the history of denim will remain, and we believe there will be a quick shift back to the traditional denims—perhaps as quickly as the day they fine a vaccine cure. Nevertheless, comfort will remain and TENCEL™ will become as important a blend as cotton.
Anatt Finkler, Global Denim – Mexico
I disagree. I think “demise of denim” is a very powerful and broad statement. Of course, as we are facing tough times and change, we are seeing some other apparel categories rise as people undergo a different living situation, but I’m very positive that with some time, as the global situation starts to unfold and people adapt their lives to new normalities, denim will once again rise, as it is the most democratic fabric that provokes a sense of normality and freedom, not to mention leading an example on the sustainability front. Of course, we will see denim evolve and change adapting to new necessities.
Ani Wells, Simply Suzette – Canada
Denim has always adapted to what the current needs of the time are. Once used solely as workwear but moved on to symbolize different cultural movements. So, I think with the modern definition of denim being so flexible and its ability to adapt, we will never see its demise!
Christina Brocato, Naveena Denim – USA
Many of us have witnessed how denim has evolved over the last 25 years with fiber advancements and thus adapting seamlessly with our changing lifestyles and fashion cycles. Denim will always find its place in our wardrobe and evolve right alongside us. Denim is here to stay, and I always look forward to what’s next!
Eric Goldstein, Vidalia Mills – USA
I do not agree with this at all. I think this is a trend that is a direct result of the current COVID situation in the world. For sure people are wearing more knit products now, but I don’t believe this is going to be a long-term situation. Denim is a part of life, a part of the American uniform, a true staple of fashion. It’s a fabric that has been around forever and will continue to make people feel great and look great for many years to come.
Michael Abbey, J Brand Jeans – USA
I disagree because denim is so infinite, it can always adapt to meet the evolving needs of consumers. At J Brand, we just launched Limitless Stretch denim, a new yarn technology that is amazingly comfortable and has incredible recovery while looking like authentic denim. The changing needs of customers and the industry combined with the new technologies now available allow denim to truly become anything.
Panos Sofianos, Bluezone – Greece
I don’t think it’s the demise of denim; this sounds at least pessimistic. During the years, there were again those predictions mostly based on the temporary fashion trends. Denim is a powerful product that came in this planet to stay eternally essential as bread and butter. In other words, its glorious past guarantees safely its present and future. Although needs for cozy knits is increasing, denim with its multifaceted identity will rule again soon.
Let us not forget the evolution of technology in fibers as cottonized hemp, REFIBRA™ (upcycled cotton waste), biodegradable spandex, graphene, anti-aging properties, cosmetic skincare, antibacterial, etc. are giving new perspectives to the most democratic fabric on earth.
Rowan Hunt, Denim Research – UK
I would obviously disagree. I would agree that consumers’ needs have changed in the last five months plus, and comfort is now the number one requirement to this new WFH culture. Within this comfort requirement, we have seen super stretch (woven) items as well as more rigid items in wider fits grow. I believe you can get all you need from your trusted 3/1 with advancements like 100 percent stretch fabrics and soft responsible fibers. Knits are great and fit a need, but they simply just aren’t denim as we know and love.
So this weekend… reach into your closet for your dependable pair of jeans.