What to See in Kingpins Amsterdam
On Oct. 15 and 16, Kingpins Show Amsterdam will return to Sugar City with a roster of roughly 100 exhibitors across the denim world.
Below, executives from 10 of the exhibiting denim mills from around the globe share the highlights from their upcoming Spring/Summer 2027 collections that will be on view at the show. Read on to discover the trends they are leaning in to, what washes they developed and how they are using TENCEL™ Lyocell.
Advance Denim
Mark Ix, marketing director – North America
Advance Denim’s Spring/Summer 2027 highlights are both ingenious innovations that solve persistent performance issues. The first innovation is TENCEL™ Lyocell – HV100. HV100 mirrors the natural imperfections and inconsistencies of natural cotton to create a soft sustainable denim that has less shine than traditional TENCEL™. This has been a request from designers for years and also is the reason matte TENCEL™ was created. HV100 creates a TENCEL™ that is not only more dull but also mimics cottons vintage appearance.
The second innovation that Advance Denim will be highlighting is Reflex Denim. Reflex Denim incorporates Lycra’s VintageFX dual core technology that enables increased performance for comfort stretch denim styles. Traditionally, comfort stretch styles are able to keep a true rigid aesthetic but lacks the performance to recover through repeated wearings. Reflex denim adds a dual core technology that increases recovery without sacrificing true vintage rigid denim look and feel.
Both these technologies were created to meet the market’s demand for more vintage denim looks while adding performance.
Bhaskar Denims
Alok Kachhap, fashion designer
We have worked on authentic look, green- and brown-casted indigos family Spectra, wider width comfort stretch with TENCEL™ blend for soft hand feel and also for more sustainable approach along with linen and recycled fibers.
Global Denim
Anatt Finkler, creative director
Global Denim’s upcoming collection breaks away from convention, introducing a new vision of luxury in denim. Crafted with elevated fabrics, unique weaves and innovative constructions never before seen in this hemisphere, this collection redefines what denim can be.
Backed by state-of-the-art machinery, we are now able to create fabrics that embody luxury, novelty and trend relevance, opening the door to serve every target audience while staying aligned with the global fashion landscape.
The line features an extensive range of weaves and textures—herringbones, twill variations (6×2, 6×1), canvas, basket weaves, linear patterns and knit-like fabrics, among others. Each fabric is being carefully developed through numerous trials to ensure a collection that is both distinctive and versatile. Already, several of these fabrics have been adopted by local brands, generating strong traction and positive response.
From stretch to rigid qualities, pure indigos to sulfur-dyed bottoms and tops, this new offering embodies the next chapter of denim: innovative, elevated and globally relevant.
Indigo Textiles
Shiraz Masood, director
Every season, we challenge ourselves to create something that embraces change while staying true to authenticity. In Spring/Summer 27, that vision comes alive through Primale. Crafted with TENCEL™ fibers, it goes beyond fabric—it is style with purpose. Minimalist yet powerful, refined yet sustainable, the collection blends elegance with comfort while keeping sustainability at its core. For me, it represents a new language of indigo—one that is both inspiring and future-focused.
Maritaş Denim
Fatih Kesim, general manager
As Maritaş, we are stepping into the Spring/Summer 27 season with our Sunray Breeze collection. Designed with a spirit of optimism and lightness, the collection reflects the sunlight and summer breeze in the fabrics, materials and textures we selected bringing freshness, comfort and naturalness to the forefront throughout the range. Sunray Breeze stands out with the balanced harmony of diverse fibers, a rich overdye color palette focusing on summer evenings with hues of cacao, marsala, blue and grey, along with varied weaving structures and comfort-driven product groups.
Our new concepts further strengthen this approach. AirCore emphasizes lightness and ease, NeoVintage brings a modern perspective to authentic denim, Linen Edition highlights natural shades and unique textures for summer elegance and coolness, while MBS Technology takes the industry’s versatile high elasticity to a new and advanced level of performance.
In addition, 20 percent of our collection is made with TENCEL™ fibers. The softness, breathability, moisture management and eco-friendly production process offered by TENCEL™ make our collection not only aesthetically strong but also a valuable step forward in sustainability.
For us, Sunray Breeze is a symbol of harmony with nature, an optimistic outlook and a search for a better direction for the future.
Rajby Textiles
Bilal Saleem, director
The most exciting highlight of our upcoming collection is the palette; we call it Beyond the Blues. Denim has always been rooted in indigo, but with this palette we’re pushing those boundaries and exploring color in its most expressive form. We’ve played with unexpected shades and striking contrasts, offering a range of different casts—both tinted and non-tinted —that give denim a completely fresh look. What makes it even more special is the soft touch woven into each fabric, so while the colors stand out boldly, the comfort and wearability remain just as important. In a way, this palette turns denim into a canvas, inviting people to see it not just as a classic fabric but as a medium for creativity, expression and individuality. It’s really made for those who love to color outside the lines.
Panther Denim
Tim Huesemann, sales director
Our highlight is a fusion of comfort-driven performance fabrics, Stretch Science innovations and authentic denim aesthetics, created to meet the evolving needs of global consumers who demand both fashion and functionality.
Fiber blends include cotton, TENCEL™ and Lycra, combined with recycled and natural alternatives such as linen, hemp and pineapple leaf fiber.
Weaves and looks include linen-like constructions (LinenAir), authentic yet soft (Dreamfeel), innovative comfort-driven weaving (Pyjama), and modern luxurious textures (Cheenoh).
For technologies, Stretch Science introduces new solutions ensuring denim adapts to the body while retaining fit, recovery and lasting comfort. In addition, YOLO goes beyond finishing, it is a performance upgrade for denim, delivering easy care, durability, shade consistency and a refined hand feel.
Our collection also embraces creativity with lurex yarns, printing, embossing, foiling, jacquards, needle punch, colored denim and our C-Zero sustainable dyeing technology, expanding the design possibilities for denim beyond convention.
Our Spring/Summer 2027 collection responds directly to today’s market by combining sustainability, innovation and timeless design, offering fabrics that are versatile, durable and desirable for both brands and end users.
TCE Denim
Justin Hwang, sales director
Our Feather Light Denim is 100 percent cotton loose weaving construction, cotton-TENCEL™ blend or cotton-LENZING™ ECOVERO™ lightweight 8-10 oz. These fabrics are popular for the top and dress denim. The top and dress categories are getting more demand.
Extra-long staple (ELS) cotton fiber creates super softness and high durability. We mix the long staple cotton and TENCEL™ together and it creates a real soft and drapey effect.
U-Fit fabric is versatile, easy to mix, worn by anyone regardless of gender and age. It means the fabric is common, but the point is suitable fabric character such as slub balance, content, construction for every customer segment.
We also have sulphur color denim. PFD (prepared for dyeing) garment dyeing is still strong, but we can see more demand for color denim looking for more natural fade-out effect after washing. Brown and light beige colors are popular from our customers.
Our LENZING™ ECOVERO™ blend fabric is one of the best fabric picks for the Feather Light Denim and U-Fit categories recently from the contemporary market to mass market. We expect we hope to move forward with a real order soon.
The denim market is increasingly demanding diverse styles and varied details, and market requests are becoming more and more specialized. However, the core principle remains that the fabric’s versatility must create differentiation, enabling it to absorb all this mentioned variety. We keep trying to develop this kind of fabrication.
Tüsa Denim
Vedat Kalay, sales and marketing director
As the summer of 2027 approaches, fashion lives between what is real and what is imagined. Our Golden Hour collection turns heat into shimmer, simplicity into spectacle and denim into a canvas of contrasts. It’s a season to play between light and shadow, truth and fantasy, and comfort and performance—with pieces that surprise, transform and redefine denim for a new era.
Summer Date is one of our key concepts, where we introduce a sartorial fabric family that are modern suit-adjacent denims with a refined drape and subtle sheen, crafted from responsible blends—TENCEL™ Lyocell with organic cotton and recycled cotton options—delivering a soft touch, premium luster and a luxury look without sacrificing performance or circular intent.
Color completes the story. Alongside our signature Tüsa Indigo Palette, we debut new, directional casts—brown-reddish and dark khaki. Both bring rich, dark hues that still offer easy wash flexibility into summer brights, ensuring designers can dial up either polish or play within the same fabric platform.
Twin Dragon
Stephanie Poon, director of marketing and merchandising
This season, the spotlight is on TDMI’s new Atmos Luxe, the highlight of our performance fabric collection. As demand grows for textiles that combine advanced functionality with everyday comfort, this innovation delivers the best of both worlds. Built on Atmos’s hollow-core yarn technology, the fabric creates microchannels within each filament to enhance thermal regulation—retaining heat in cooler conditions while enabling rapid moisture transport and quick-dry performance in warmer climates.
Atmos Luxe, a new blend featuring softer, more fluid fibers elevates the fabric’s profile with enhanced drape, natural softness, a refined hand feel and an eco-conscious edge. The result is a next-generation textile that balances lightweight breathability, resilience and sustainability—designed to perform seamlessly across all seasons while offering an elevated touch of luxury.