Exploring the Kingpins x Ravensbourne Innovation Project, Part I
Students are shaping the path for innovation in denim and Carved in Blue is inspired by it.
The Kingpins x Ravensbourne Innovation Project tasked second year fashion students at the London university with designing a sustainable denim brand in just 10 weeks.
“This module joins three fashion courses, and puts groups of students who have never really met to make a denim brand,” Endrime’s Mohsin Sajid, who teaches for the Innovation Project, said. “We are lucky to have 10 weeks on a project like this other university’s and courses I teach on we only cover denim module for about two or three weeks max–so the level of detail which is covered from design, sourcing, branding, sustainability and ethical impact of denim and cotton is covered. This year, we had many students learning every stage and telling a story, so we made sure mills supplied us the best innovation in TENCEL™ Denim with hemp, and denims which had been made using no water. We were lucky as not only was the project sponsored to Kingpins show and like Candiani, Orta, Bossa, Cone Denim, Kurabo, Hewitt, Neela, 496 Fabric lab, and Artistic Milliners using TENCELall supplied us the latest innovations in denim to use of each of the groups of students. We even had groups of students who were sponsored by Jeanologia to laser wash their collections and trim Supplier YKK made custom buttons for the groups of students. No other BA Hons course in the world has this much industry support.”
“This module joins three fashion courses, and puts groups of students who have never really met to make a denim brand,” Endrime’s Mohsin Sajid, who teaches for the Innovation Project, said. “We are lucky to have 10 weeks on a project like this other university’s and courses I teach on we only cover denim module for about two or three weeks max–so the level of detail which is covered from design, sourcing, branding, sustainability and ethical impact of denim and cotton is covered. This year, we had many students learning every stage and telling a story, so we made sure mills supplied us the best innovation in TENCEL™ Denim with hemp, and denims which had been made using no water. We were lucky as not only was the project sponsored to Kingpins show and Candiani, Orta, Bossa, Cone Denim, Kurabo, Hewitt, Neela, 496 Fabric lab, and Artistic Milliners using TENCEL™ Denim, supplied us the latest innovations in denim to use of each of the groups of students. We even had groups of students who were sponsored by Jeanologia to laser wash their collections and trim Supplier YKK made custom buttons for the groups of students. No other BA Hons course in the world has this much industry support.”
Now Carved in Blue is sharing stories from the fledgling designers and the judges who reviewed their work—and what the project has meant for both.
Ravensbourne student Xinyu Tu was eager to participate in the project.
“I want to get a better platform and opportunity, during the period of working with the KINGPINS, I have also come into contact with and learned a lot of new knowledge about the cowboy industry,” Xinyu said. “I will better understand the development process of this industry and learn some new knowledge from it.”
Xinyu’s designs were focused on classic denim, leaning on the fabric to deliver an overall classic feel.
When asked what’s appealing about the denim industry, Xinyu said, “I think denim is different from any other fabric in that it has a special effect without too much treatment, which is what drives me to enter the denim industry.”
But the sometimes-missing link with denim and protecting the environment is something Xinyu wants to change.
“I think what’s missing right now is the protection of the environment, which is the theme of our series, sustainability is the foundation of everything, because for the whole denim industry, probably the treatment of industrial water is a very important part,” Xinyu said.
When we asked ‘What does Carved in Blue mean to you?’ Xinyu said, “The way to interpret it is that these very fine tannins are also a drain on our planet’s resources, so be in awe of nature. Try to get as many people to like it as possible.”
Participation in the project was also a learning moment for the judges.
Endrime’s Mohsin Sajid said, “I’ve been teaching on the Ravensbourne Innovation Project for the last six years–every year I’m surprised by the level of understanding of each of the groups of students. This year each of groups surpassed our expectations from creating videos, and making collections with zero waste. Some of these collections could very easily go into stores today. The level of understanding of the entire sourcing process and the level of presentation skills–these butch of 100 students are world class.”
The most rewarding thing about the project, Sajid said, was “Just seeing how engaged each of the groups were. How they really are trying to find solutions to the past problems in the industry. I was blown away by the zero waste collection–by a group called Ephemere.”
Kelly Harington, a denim blogger and another judge on the project, agreed.
“I learnt just how innovative and passionate the students are regarding sustainability and design,” she said. “Sustainability is second nature to them, the consciousness is already there. It’s more than just a trend but it’s inherent in what they do. In addition, the thought process and designs they generated collaboratively, as a team, were to an extremely high standard.”
And there’s a difference between the market now and when Kelly was at university.
“Sustainability wasn’t even a factor when I was studying, it just wasn’t on the map!” she said. “I also didn’t get to learn from industry insiders or get the chance to work on collaborative team projects like this one. There are so many rich experiences and such vast information available to students now, it’s amazing to see the output of that in their amazing work!”
For Lenzing’s Michael Kininmonth, the students’ talent was something to remark.
“Considering that the students were not denim specialists, the standard was impressively high,” he said. “Working together is not always easy. Teams are often subject to conflicts between members, differences in opinion, which can lead to increased stress–so it was rewarding to see lots of examples of great teamwork.”
Doug Gun, who works in a vintage showroom, admitted that sometimes the judges, who are professionals in the industry, are learning more from the students who aren’t yet.
“Because everything is changing and students are processing the change in a more organic and natural way,” he said. “This is the most rewarding factor here. Embrace the change, its meaning and work with those they represent the future, do not idolatrate those they only represent the past especially in our industry where the past is real industrial and environmental catastrophe.”
When asked what advice they would offer to the students, here’s what each judge had to say:
Mohsin: “Follow your gut. Most of these generation of students have an unimaginable sense of overconfidence. They feel confused and annoyed by past generations not followed the correct path. The last 30 years we have knowingly known most if all the washing practices denim mills and cut and sew factories are harmful to the planet–these next generation of designer are going to hoping refuse and break the chain.”
Kelly: “Stay humble and work hard. Be willing to learn and keep creating. Believe in your dream and push yourself.”
Michael: “Take advantage of generous industrial companies who are willing to share their knowledge and expertise. Take advantage of the wonder that is the internet. Soak up knowledge from where ever you can get it and bring that all-round knowledge to your designs and product development.”
Doug: “If your dream is a vision make it real. If your dream it’s just a dream it means you are sleeping and you’d better wake up. Technical expertise counts more than what you think it probably count as much as creativity. Those two factors are not in conflict, they actually go together.”
