Mill Memo: Pakistan Producers Share How They Use TENCEL™, Part 1

Mills

Apr 11, 2023

Over the years, it has become easier to find denim fabrics containing TENCEL™ Lyocell or Modal as mills scale up their use of these fibers to meet sustainability, design or performance characteristics.

Adding TENCEL™ to denim creates textiles that are soft and comfortable, with a smaller ecological impact. The fibers can also create a variety of looks—from a subtle sheen to matte and slubby. Carved in Blue connected with mills in Pakistan to discuss how they are using TENCEL™ and what to expect from their upcoming lines. Read on to hear from AGI Denim, Artistic Denim Mills, Artistic Fabric Mills, Artistic Milliners, Crescent Bahuman Limited and Diamond Denim.

AGI DENIM

Ali Tekin, R&D director

Carved in Blue: Could you briefly describe your latest collections that feature TENCEL™ fibers?

Ali: It is very clear that softness is one of the main customer expectations. Because of softness needs, we are using a different type of regenerated Lenzing fiber to get additional value in our fabrics.

We want to get softness, but it has to be natural, not artificial. TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal can help with natural softness. But on the other side, we need to keep authenticity as aesthetics, owing that we are aiming to get softness married to authenticity. We have a new technology called Cottonized TENCEL™, which helps to get softness without losing authenticity.

Sustainability is another key word. We are using TENCEL™, ECOVERO™, REFIBRA™ type fibers, which are helping us to cover sustainable needs. These fibers have lower emissions, water impact and all have a sustainable source.

In the shaping fabrics category, the market needs a lifting and a push-up feature, but at the same time they don’t prefer high compression or a stiff feeling in the fabric. We are using TENCEL™ Modal fiber with our True Denim spinning technology that supports softness simultaneously with shaping performance.

Carved in Blue: When did you first use TENCEL™ in commercial collections? And how has your use of TENCEL™ changed since then?

Ali: We have been using TENCEL™ since the early 2000s. When we first started, the only reason we used TENCEL™ was softness and smoothness. But today we know much more how we can get benefits from every TENCEL™ feature.

Today, we do not focus on only aesthetics and feel—we also look at how we can get performance. Our Free-Stretch will be a very accurate example. In this project, we aim to get optimum performance without using synthetic fiber. We combine TENCEL™ fibers together with our other technologies for a truly amazing feel.

Carved in Blue: What top trends do you see for denim in the upcoming Fall/Winter 24-25 season? How can brands and garment manufacturers use your TENCEL™ collections to create designs fitting these trends?

Ali: As an aesthetic, all products are very similar to each other in the market. This causes a monotony and decrease in customer demand. Now different visuals, slub and textures are more important than before. Currently, the ‘90s texture is one of the trends in market. We are changing the way of using TENCEL™ fibers and sharing the right aesthetics with our customers.

In terms of performance, the market had a sharp change after the pandemic. Shaping performance products are still in demand, but we need to offer less compression and more comfort. Modal, viscose and ECOVERO™ are playing key roles for this need. Brands and manufacturers are also creating new fits according to changing customer needs.

In terms of sustainability, the use of recycled fiber is increasingly more important, but we are also looking at how we can make recyclable denim. We are using REFIBRA™ and ECOVERO™, but we are also creating new technologies like Free-Stretch and Self-Stretch with TENCEL™ fibers, which are eliminating the use of petrol-based fibers. This product form allows brands to make products and fits suitable for recycling once more.

In terms of feel, not only women but for men as well, we need a natural soft touch. We can easily say that genderless products are more important nowadays, and brands are creating their own genderless line with new fits and designs.

ARTISTIC DENIM MILLS

Zara Ahmed, head of sustainability and marketing

Carved in Blue: Could you briefly describe your latest collections that feature TENCEL™ fibers?

Zara: ADM’s new collection juxtaposes a vintage, authentic, ‘90s denim look with premium, sleek and luxe fabrics for an unparalleled feel. Lenzing fibers are an integral component for this effect. The collection features TENCEL™ Lyocell in Zero Virgin Cotton and Zero Cotton concepts.

Our Super Sculpt collection is crafted using TENCEL™ Modal and Lyocell with Lycra DualFx in the weft—a perfect recipe for a sculpting and high retention fit with the benefit of comfort and breathability.

Carved in Blue: When did you first use TENCEL™ in commercial collections? And how has your use of TENCEL™ changed since then?

Zara: Our relationship with Lenzing goes back over a decade to 2012. We were the first Pakistani mill to introduce ProModal in denim, and have continued over the years to be an innovation partner and leader. Lenzing fibers are an essential part of our offering, both from a technical standpoint and sustainability perspective.

Zara: Loose fits, wider legs, baggy denim is a core silhouette for sure. With more denim ready-to-wear options, from coats and vests to long coats and cropped jackets, denim on denim will continue in a strong way.

Apart from sustainability, the functional benefits of the TENCEL™ collection, such as smoothness, sheen, strength, moisture management and breathability, makes it a perfect match for trends this season.

ARTISTIC FABRIC MILLS

Sabur Iftikhar Qureshi, senior manager marketing

Carved in Blue: Could you briefly describe your latest collections that feature TENCEL™ fibers?

Sabur: We have used TENCEL™ fibers up to 20 percent in fabrics we are launching in our latest collection. Here are the main products we are using and their attributes in the fabric.

We use TENCEL™ Lyocell and TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ to make fabrics softer and stronger. As we use a high percentage of post-industrial waste recycled cotton in our fabric, the strength deteriorates with the use of a high percentage of recycled cotton. To make it stronger and softer, both at the same time, we use TENCEL™, resulting in sustainable properties as well. We also use TENCEL™ Lyocell to make fabrics lustrous, which cannot be achieved using cotton or any other fiber.

We also use TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology. We have marketed the articles in previous collections having TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology as undyed fabrics and have sampled for a few customers, but have not received a valuable feedback on this product.

Carved in Blue: When did you first use TENCEL™ in commercial collections? And how has your use of TENCEL™ changed since then?

Sabur: We started using TENCEL™ as a commercial product back in 2014 in our first collections. Since then, the use of TENCEL™ has evolved from a premium product to a sustainable product. Previously, TENCEL™ was about producing premium and unique fabrics, while now, this concept has changed and TENCEL™ has involved itself more as a sustainable product.

Sabur: We see soft and drapey fabrics coming back in the trend with loose fits that go very well with the concept of TENCEL™ fiber, mixing the look of vintage salt and pepper marbling with the fabric being soft. We even do have a few articles in our upcoming collection to cater this trend. Also we see super soft fabrics with high stretches to provide additional comfort to the wearer.

ARTISTIC MILLINERS

Bashir Faiz, senior manager research and development

Carved in Blue: Could you briefly describe your latest collections that feature TENCEL™ fibers?

Bashir: Our latest collection includes TENCEL™ in different blend percentages, weight and stretch levels. We also developed a workwear collection with TENCEL™ to make the workwear soft and functional. We also designed special constructions in TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology for our customers.

Carved in Blue: When did you first use TENCEL™ in commercial collections? And how has your use of TENCEL™ changed since then?

Bashir: We are one of the earliest adopters of TENCEL™ in denim and first used TENCEL™ in mid-2000 in our commercial collection. We started with only one product, and to summarize the changes since then, now more than half of the collection includes TENCEL™.

Bashir: As per current market trends and consumer interest, sustainability, authentic/vintage denim and loose fits will lead the trend in Fall/Winter 24-25.

As we all know, TENCEL™ is the most sustainable regenerated fiber and almost all major brands working in this fiber and this alone is enough for the sustainability claims, but we have a wide range of TENCEL™ products with other sustainable fibers too like organic cotton, recycled cotton, recycled polyester, Renewcell, Infinna, etc.

Authentic/vintage denim made by TENCEL™ gives the same rugged look and soft feel with our mechanically recycled TENCEL™.

Loose-fit denim made with TENCEL™ is really soft and must have an article of each individual, and we made a complete collection with TENCEL™ in this important category.

Other than the trends, TENCEL™ now becomes the essential part of denim staples like skinny jeans for soft feel and body-hugging fabric, and we also include this category in our latest range.

CRESCENT BAHUMAN LIMITED

Imran Tanveer, assistant vice president, research & development

Carved in Blue: Could you briefly describe your latest collections that feature TENCEL™ fibers?

Imran: TENCEL™ fibers have recently in the past few years become a mandatory part of any collection that the mill is presenting. Due to the fact that TENCEL™ fibers are green in nature with additional softness and superior blending possibilities with all type of fibers, TENCEL™ fibers are a regular feature for CBL’s latest collections in recent history.

Our Sensual and Bloom collections regularly feature fabrics made with TENCEL™ fiber and TENCEL™ Modal fibers. Our eco-conscious denims use REFIBRA™ and carbon-zero TENCEL™ products as well.

Our Stay Dark series with TENCEL™ Modal with Indigo Color technology is also a nice representation of an authentic looking stay-dark jean.

At the same time, we are offering some zero cotton materials with blends like hemp, which remains soft and drapey yet is very much aligned with the sustainable aspect on the material use part.

Carved in Blue: When did you first use TENCEL™ in commercial collections? And how has your use of TENCEL™ changed since then?

Imran: As far as TENCEL™ fibers use goes, I believe it has been more than five years now that TENCEL™ fibers are a part of general collections being offered by the mills.

The transformation that we have seen during this time is that once this product was used as a novelty item, but nowadays TENCEL™ fibers are a regular feature of any collection that is offered from the mills.

Imran: The changing market dynamics—post Covid supply disruption and rising inflation along with tight monetary policies across the world—are forcing brands and manufacturers to come up with smart solutions, and for the same reason we see one of the key focus areas for upcoming seasons is to unify and consolidate the product mix. This is where denim fabrics that provide flexibility of achieving multiple aesthetics come into play. Another major focus area is towards sustainability; for both these areas, TENCEL™-based collections are providing a good platform to offer fabrics that provide ample softness, a sustainable element and flexibility to be used in all kind of fabrics.

DIAMOND DENIM

Maurizio Baldi, R&D center

Carved in Blue: Could you briefly describe your latest collections that feature TENCEL™ fibers?

Maurizio: In the AW 24-25 range, Diamond Denim presents about 10 percent of its denims blended with TENCEL™ Lyocell. TENCEL™ fabrics are mainly in the power-stretch area, called Shaper.

Carved in Blue: When did you first use TENCEL™ in commercial collections? And how has your use of TENCEL™ changed since then?

Maurizio: Diamond Denim presented denims with TENCEL™ in its first collection in 2015. At the beginning, we worked with TENCEL™ in our shirting area, but since 2020 we have focused on stretch and super-stretch fabrics.

Maurizio: The trend for rigid and heavy denims is growing in the market. TENCEL™ gives these fabrics a better hand-feel and drape effect.