The Next Steps for Sustainability at Kingpins Amsterdam
The return on investments in science, creativity and people were evident at Kingpins Amsterdam and Transformers, where sustainability was the leading story for almost all of the denim mills.
“The momentum on sustainability is at all levels,” said Tricia Carey, Lenzing director of global business development for denim. “There is now a concern from fiber to finished garment.”
The seminar series, Transformers, raised questions about the cost of sustainability. Speakers included representatives from Target Corporation, Lenzing, Jeanologia, Sai-tex, BlueSign, BCI, Bayer e3, Garmon, Archroma and more. “This is a wonderful opportunity for the denim leaders to connect and address industry challenges together,” said Andreas Dorner, Lenzing commercial director for U.S. and Europe.
At Transformers, Dorner presented about the value of sustainability, specifically Lenzing’s latest innovation, Refibra. He explained how the industry works together to develop new ideas and the process in which Lenzing is reusing post industrial cotton scraps to make a new fiber called Refibra™ branded lyocell fiber. Dorner said time and financial investment is necessary to creating a more sustainable denim and apparel industry. “There is no balance sheet about the costs of environmental damage,” he quipped.
Denim experts agreed. At Transformers, fashion and sustainability journalist Paulina Szmydke-Cacciapalle stressed the fact that sustainable practices and innovation ultimately pay for itself, adding that companies with high ratings for CSR and ESG factories have lower costs of debt and equity. Meanwhile Target Senior Designer of Denim, Kristin Kimm, shared how the U.S. retailer is taking a lot of small steps to make a big impact in offering the end users sustainable products for value prices. “It’s a marathon, not a sprint,” Kimm said.
At Kingpins, mills discussed ways water, chemicals and energy can be reduced in denim manufacturing. The Italian denim mill Candiani touted its Kitotex technology, which uses the polymer, Chitosan, as an ingredient in the dyeing and finishing process, allowing the mill to cut down on water and chemicals and to operate at lower temperatures. The substance is biodegradable and after the production process, it can help purify discharge water.
Pakistan-based Artistic Milliners presented innovations developed out of its Dubai creative center. In addition to introducing fabrications with aloe vera in their Sunday Jeans, a new range of cozy, 90s style denim with TENCEL ® fibers, the mill debuted its most sustainable jean yet—a garment made with recycled cotton and polyester, organic cotton and sustainable leather patches, rivets and thread. Ebru Ozaydin, Artistic Milliners director of sales and global marketing, said the goal is to make each step—from fabric to wash—as sustainable as possible.
Companies along the supply chain are now turning to engaging and fashionable ways to communicate their sustainable stories. ADM told a story focused on Lenzing’s Future Black denim made with Lenzing Modal® BLACK fiber, while Knitdigo continued to innovate in knit indigo and Albiate tapped into shirting trends with fabrications using TENCEL® branded lyocell fibers.
Lenzing’s Sustainable Denim Wardrobe is a capsule collection featuring fabrics from 11 denim mills, was a shining example of creative collaboration. The Sustainable Denim Wardrobe, produced by Jeanologia, is a collaboration which brings together responsibly produced fibers, fabrics and laundry processes in one curated denim lifestyle collection that enables ecologically conscious consumption.
The fabrics in the collection have been chosen from commercially available ranges during the autumn denim shows in 2016. Over 75 fabrics were assessed during the initial prototyping stages. Participating mills including Bossa, Turkey; Calik, Turkey; Candiani, Italy; Imatex, Italy, Kassim, Pakistan; KG Denim, India; Martinelli Ginetto, Italy; Mozartex, China; Orta, Turkey; Unitin, Spain, as well as seamless knits developed by Santoni, Italy.
Lenzing presented the wardrobe at Kingpins, attracting attention from attendees for the collection’s unique textures and finishes. Popular items included a women’s mixed media top made from fabric from Bossa, Imatex and Calik, and 100 percent MicroModal® branded fibers gown made with fabric from Martinelli Ginetto. For men, a slim blazer made with Kassim denim comprised of cotton, ProModal® branded fibers and elastane, and a 100 percent TENCEL® fibers coated parka with a camouflage laser design stole the show.
Denim heads recall that it was only two years ago when sustainability was a sub-story in the denim world. However, Kingpins Amsterdam confirmed that sustainable practices are at the forefront, driving the innovation, collaboration and creativity denim needs to stay relevant in closets and stores across the globe.