Saitex: Benevolence in Business
Saitex CEO Sanjeev Bahl wholeheartedly believes that garment manufacturers and apparel brands can do well and do good for people and the earth.
Saitex is a garment manufacturer, specializing in denim and other over-dyed products, based in Bien Hoa, Vietnam, across the Saigon bridge, about 20 miles outside Hồ Chí Minh City. The privately held company is also planning facilities in the west, and for the future, CEO Sanjeev Bahl sees much promise in micro-facilities, which he says will allow for proximity to customers. That can speed up the design-to-production process, and can accommodate small-batch, customized runs, while preserving ethical and sustainable production.
Sanjeev’s vision for Saitex is not about “fast fashion” as many understand it now, however. When it comes to garment manufacturing “speed” and “profit” have garnered some brands a reputation for disposable clothing, where production comes at a cost to both humans and the environment. Rather, Saitex holds firm to the values of multiculturalism, ethical treatment of workers and sustainability—an ethos premised on the idea that a company can achieve high performance and growth while operating with respect for people and community, using processes that are gentle to the earth. The company is seeing significant growth, especially in the last 24 months.
In the videos on its website, Saitex proclaims its vision for alleviating suffering, building homes for the homeless, conserving water and energy, harnessing the sun for power, and growing a world class manufacturing business—where robots and humans work side by side and biodegradable and recycled materials provide for a thriving and safe planet for future generations. “Perhaps” is a futuristic look at the possibilities, with a peek at what’s already happening. “Re-Cut” demonstrates Saitex’s partnership with Puma, where footwear was made from post-industrial denim waste. 100% of the profits from that collection went to fund education, recreational activities and health care at the Be Tho Orphanage in Bien Hoa City.
Saitex products are shipped globally for leading fashion houses, and in addition to its employees in Vietnam, the apparel maker has development personnel based in the USA and Europe. Sanjeev is presenting Saitex’s products and its mission and values at New York Denim Days at the Fashion Institute of Technology on Friday, September 29. Carved in Blue talked to him, to find out what he has in store.
Carved in Blue: Who are some of your key customers?
Sanjeev: Some of our key customers include G Star, Everlane,Target, S Oliver, Buckle, True Religion, CK, Tommy Hilfiger, Amazon and Madewell. There is a range of brick-and-mortar as well as direct-to-consumer retailers and brands.
Carved in Blue: Why do you see sustainability as so important to denim?
Sanjeev: The Greenpeace campaign raised a red flag for the industry. I have worked in many factories over the years, and I saw there was a need to change how we treat the environment. It was just not right. What will we have to leave our kids? We must be more mindful of how we treat the earth.
That means we must do what is right early in the garment stage, so I support using fabrics with organic cotton, TENCEL® fibers and Lenzing Modal® fibers.
Even if brands are not marketing it, we must do what is right. Everlane is a great example of a business that is proving that the consumer DOES want sustainability in products.
Carved in Blue: What do you see in the future?
Sanjeev: In 2019 we plan to expand with a mill in Vietnam. This backwards integration will support the mission of sustainability in fabrics and allow further transparency.
We see more development in the future around micro-factories in the U.S.A, Europe, and Japan. This is not just to be closer to the consumer and make smaller quantities, but also to have more customized products. It is a wonderful case study on speed. I also see 3D printing as a technology we will be embracing in the future.
Young designers who work through social media are going to be more important. This is such an important means of influence and communication.
There is also disruption in the supply chain. The entire supply chain has to provide a holistic approach to the garment. I always try to develop products around sustainable materials.
Carved in Blue: What are you doing at Saitex with regards to social aspects of the denim business?
Sanjeev: We realize there is the need for a net positive impact. We have to go beyond boundaries, beyond just looking at manufacturing, to also consider the social part of the business. Vietnam in general has favorable worker rights, and we have some special programs to support women. We have an annual women’s day, support through maternity leave and also provide education scholarships. We also have programs to empower women in management positions and support gender equality.
Carved in Blue: What’s your view on New York Denim Days?
Sanjeev: I have attended Amsterdam Denim Days and really enjoyed the combination of ideas. NY Denim Days is a time to go beyond our usual B2B conversations, issues and the perceived future. By going B2C, and engaging with consumers, we can have Denim Days as opportunity for one big business. I look forward to the consumer interaction and to having discussions about the supply chain — and bringing the consumer more understanding about the products they buy.
Carved in Blue: What will you be talking about at the denim presentations held at FIT on Friday, September 29th?
Sanjeev: I am still developing my presentation for Friday, but I will provide a perspective for the students and industry about alternatives in manufacturing. I will articulate the journey—and present that sustainability is not a myth.
Carved in Blue: Where do you go for inspiration?
Sanjeev: I look to the past with vintage garments and go to a lot of flea markets. I just found some great things at a market in Berlin. I don’t really shop a lot of stores. I am not about replication.
Carved in Blue: What are some of your favorite places in NYC?
Sanjeev: My favorite restaurants are the Jean-Georges establishments [run by Jean-Georges Vongerichten]. Besides living in Vietnam, I also have a residence on the Upper East Side, so I spend time in my local neighborhood. Once in a while my son will drag me downtown!
Carved in Blue: What does Carved in Blue Mean to you?
Sanjeev: Carved in Blue has an influential position and holistic view of the denim market. It is refreshing to have such singularity in message, which is meaningful toward sustainability.