Sustainability and Innovation are a Natural Fit
Is vertically integrated manufacturing a gateway to a more sustainable future?
For Soorty, the Pakistan mill with a strong U.S. and European client base, it’s fully-vertical capabilities have been an essential key to designing the innovative and quality products its value-seeking customers want. “We are always a step ahead when it comes to innovation and responsible production,” said Ahmar Zulfiqar, Soorty manager of technical development.
Soorty’s vertically integrated denim manufacturing facility offers clients a complete sourcing solution from yarn to finished denim garments, including laundering, sampling and testing at an on-site lab. The mill also recently opened a product development center in Amsterdam to be closer to the trends. For more than three decades, producing over 3.2 million meters a month, the mill has been relied upon in the industry to provide denim that adheres to quality assurance guidelines, as well as creating denim that resonates with the competitive market.
Zulfiqar believes denim is influenced by trade shows, the end consumer and technology advancements, however, popular retail chains and new retailer shopping habits cannot be ignored. “Cost and fast fashion are really important criterion these days.”
Sustainability may be perceived as an added cost to some retailers and consumers, but for Soorty sustainability is a lifestyle rather than a product.
“We are always incorporating the latest eco inventions and innovations in the products and treatments. Vertical integration has allowed Soorty to produce green denim from raw fiber to garment,” Zulfiqar said.
Part of the mill’s step toward sustainability has been the addition of TENCEL®. In fact, Zulfiqar says Soorty has been one of the “pioneers” in Pakistan to use TENCEL® in their product.
“The flexibility of TENCEL® to be used with other fibers and its natural origin really helps to create innovative and responsible products. Some of our best products we have launched are with TENCEL® are vertical and sustainable from raw fiber to the finished garment,” he said.
For Spring/Summer 2018, the mill is introducing Herbal Blue with TENCEL® fiber. The line can be viewed at Denim Première Vision in Paris Nov. 2-3 and also at Kingpins NY, Nov. 2-3.
In recent years, the synthetic process used to produce indigo has come under scrutiny because of the hazardous chemicals involved. With Herbal Blue, Soorty aims to revive indigo dyes based on natural resources. The idea is to produce a product with no unnecessary environmental harm that also promotes a positive impact on people and communities.
Herbal Blue uses GOTS V4.0 certified dye stuff. It is dyed with a regular process and can achieve the same color as regular indigo dye. The same wash downs and optics can be achieved.
“The softness, sheen and absorbency of TENCEL®, along with its botanic origin made us think to use it with Herbal Blue to create vertically sustainable denim,” Zulfiqar said.
Carved In Blue: What is your first denim memory?
Ahmar: The first memory is a 90’s iconic blue jean.
Carved In Blue: What is your favorite part of your job?
Ahmar: The best thing in a denim job is that it’s never boring. The passion for denim keeps you going without even realizing that you are working.
Carved In Blue: Name a trend in denim you hope to never see again.
Ahmar: Ultra-low rise for men with a baggy look. It’s not flattering.
Carved In Blue: What makes a jean premium?
Ahmar: Premium denim has become a popular term in the fashion industry, the fact is manufacturing process for both the high street and premium denim is same. What separates one from another is that a jean with a more expensive price tag stands to make more of a margin. That can allow the buyer to explore more expensive fabrics, washings and trimmings.
Carved In Blue: What is your favorite denim city?
Ahmar: Lately Amsterdam has gained the reputation of being the denim city of world. There are many denim exhibitions happening there, world renowned stores are leading brands are there. Realizing the importance of the city in denim, we have opened our design and product development office in Amsterdam.
Carved In Blue: What does Carved In Blue mean to you?
Ahmar: Carved In blue is a great platform to find out innovations in the industry in a sustainable and responsible way.