Sustainable Denim Wardrobe: Team Jeanologia Weighs In
While few of the denimheads we speak with could be described as loners, the Jeanologia team stands out for its strong collaborative bond.
Comprised of people with an array of background and skills, each member plays a role in the making of the Sustainable Denim Wardrobe collections. We chatted with all seven to better understand the company’s mission, the challenges of creating SDW, and what’s required for the future of denim.
Carved in Blue: Tell us about your mission to lead “sustainable-ization” of the denim industry
Carme Santacruz, Creative Director (shown above): At Jeanologia we conceive sustainable-ization as a global movement to reduce the environmental footprint in any industry in the world. As part of the textile industry, we believe that a more sustainable production model is possible, and that’s why we create solutions for people and planet.
Carved in Blue: How can technology help advance sustainability?
Carme: Nowadays we cannot conceive sustainability without technology. We create extraordinary products in a more efficient and sustainable way just because of the technological inventions. They open up a new world of creative possibilities linked to ethical production.
Carved in Blue: What more needs to be done to communicate the importance and value of sustainably made denim to designers?
Carme: I think that the design community has a moral obligation to create circular products. I do believe, as a fashion designer, that we must know about the production process of a product to design thinking in the aesthetic and functionality, but also in a more efficient industrial production process. The way we conceive the products will be accountable in the following processes.
Carved in Blue: How do you view your partnership with Lenzing?
Carme: Lenzing and Jeanologia have been collaborating for more than 20 years. We have a very special and fruitful collaboration based on creativity (with annual collections) and innovation (technical consultancy for product applications) that allows both companies to be focused on our shared values: sustainability and innovation. But besides the professional part, the people involved in both projects have an exceptional relationship that goes beyond business, and we are proud of that.
Carved in Blue: You have been involved with SDW from the beginning. What are the main challenges?
Carme: The main challenge of creating the Sustainable Denim Wardrobe continuous collection is to inspire professionals from the fashion industry. In a very competitive and visual industry, we have found a way to link creative directors, designers, washing and finishing experts or fabric engineers with an original and creative collection with innovational spirit at the core of their fibers and finish.
Carved in Blue: What is your favorite style in the SDW 2019 Softwear collection?
Carme and Tania Fuchs-Meyer, Brain Box collections consultant: The column dress. It is a midi dress inspired by the minimalistic dresses from the ’90s, with an eco-tie bleach finish done using our G2-ozone technology. It’s contemporary, timeless and chemical-free.
Jose Medina, Brain Box collections consultant: The jumpsuit. It is elegant and sophisticated. The laser finish adds to the luxurious and shiny fabric.
Esmeralda Resina, Smart Lab responsible; Vicenta Domenech, denim seamstress; and Gertru del Valle, denim seamstress: The poncho because it looks, at the same time, contemporary and boho.
Betina Grosser, Brain Box intern: The coat because it has a mix of African and Japanese inspiration.
Carved in Blue: What is your favorite style in the SDW 2019 Hardwear collection?
Carme: The women workwear pants. I love the fit, but also the finish and reparations. You cannot tell that it is a pioneering garment from this century using the most advanced fiber technology and the most innovative finishing technologies.
Vicenta & Jose & Tania: The chore jacket. It looks like a real vintage! The details of stitching, the special buttons that have the appearance of being old, the little stains, the drill—I think that is such a special piece.
Esme & Betina & Gertru: The trucker jacket.
Carved in Blue: SDW 2019 is called Broadband, which is designed to reflect the wide difference between the Softwear and Hardwear styles. What is your modern definition of denim?
Carme: In my opinion, the modern definition of denim is about merging tradition and future: heritage and innovation, creativity and technology.
Vicenta: The modern definition of denim is linked to comfort.
Gertru and Tania: Denim is a modern basic, a timeless way of living.
Betina: Denim means both tradition and innovation. If I had to define it in only one word, it would be diversity.
Jose: Contemporaneous denim for me means “Evo-Fusion”—evolution in sustainable processes [and] fabric mixed compositions to create new and better results. Our life is not the same as 10 years ago, so everything has to accommodate and [change] for the future of the world.
Carved in Blue: What’s your first denim memory?
Carme: When I was a child, my mother used to dress me all in denim for Easter celebrations. It was quite common in the ’80s. My aunts, who were tailors, used to make custom double denim looks.
Vicenta: One of my first memories was wearing my brand-new jeans during Easter celebrations when I was 12 years old.
Betina: I remember playing with this really light denim overall shorts at the local park. I was 3 or 4 years old, and it was super comfy and fun.
Gertru: I remember wearing my raw and tight jeans when I was a teenager.
Jose: My family business was related to textiles, and I used to wear a short overall with acid wash effect. It was the summer of 1989; I was 4 years old and I remember wearing the overall, shirtless, all summer.
Tania: I think that my first memory that I have about a special piece of denim in my life is a trucker jacket. I just remember that someone gave it to me as a present, and at that time it was a little too big. I wore it as much as I could—when it was big, when it fit me perfectly, and after it was a little tight.
Inside of the jacket had a Mickey Mouse, and I felt like that was my little secret. It was so hard to let it go. I had it a few years in my closet because it didn’t fit me and I couldn’t let it go, but eventually a little special person came into my life, and I decided to pass my secret to her.
Esme: My first memory that had an impact in my life is when I joined Jeanologia. I was very young, and I knew nothing about the denim world. Of course, I wore jeans before, but this is what marked me the most.
Carved in Blue: If you had to pick one fit to live in forever, which would it be?
Carme: Boyfriend jeans and flares.
Vicenta: Skinny fit, my favorite.
Betina: Ribcage for sure!
Gertru: Skinny jeans.
Jose: Depends on the time, but usually I’m wearing a relaxed fit jean. This kind of fit adapts easily, just accessorizing differently.
Tania: I’m a skinny jeans type of person. I remember when I used to wear flare jeans when I was younger, but now I feel more comfortable with a skinny.
Esme: Skinny jeans.
Carved in Blue: If you could change one thing about the industry, what would it be?
Carme and Esme: Contamination.
Vicen: I would change to more sustainable productions of jeans.
Betina: That each individual of the industry could recognize their own impact and that it could reflect on their personal and professional choices. I believe awareness is very contagious. If you raise awareness in one aspect of your life, you’re probably going to be more aware about other aspects as well, and hopefully also influence people around you.
Jose: The fear of change and evolution.
Tania: I will change the process of making a more sustainable way. I think that it’s changing— slowly but changing—and it’s a step that needs to happen.