Pro Denim: What Advance Denim is Doing Without Cotton
The world of denim has long been a very polluted one, but one conscious company at a time seems to be shifting that narrative.
Advance Denim, which says it was the first denim mill in China, has been working for more than 30 years to develop its denim craft—and more recently, to make it more sustainable.
Director of North American marketing, Mark Ix, put it this way: “Advance has a long-term
strategy and a committed focus on sustainability that focuses on consistent and measurable improvement. We are demonstrating how a traditional denim mill can transform and be sustainable.”
Carved in Blue caught up with Mark to find out more about just how the mill is doing it.
Carved in Blue: Tell us a little bit about Advance Denim.
Mark: Advance Denim aims to be more than a world class denim mill. We also want to demonstrate that Advance can manufacture denim with minimal impact on the environment. Each Advance facility is closely measured and managed its environmental impact.
Carved in Blue: How are you bringing sustainability into the business?
Mark: We look at what is working in our processes and what is not. We look to constantly improve what is sustainable and fix what is not. Our sustainability focus is based in five key areas: energy, water, emissions, chemical management and industrial waste. By taking this focused sustainable management approach, we have seen measurable improvement in all five areas. The total energy consumption per yard is down 31 percent from 2013-2017. The total water consumption per yard has been reduced 34 percent from 2013-2017. We now have our own thermal power plant that uses denitrification desulfurization and electrostatic precipitation to reduce air pollutants. We have invested heavily in emission control so that we can far exceed national standards and not just meet them. Advance also has a rigorous system of testing our suppliers’ chemistry. We operate our own restricted substance list that, again, far exceeds national guidelines. Advance is even investing in machinery that will recycle dyed waste yarn into useable pigment dye.
Carved in Blue: Why did you develop a denim fabric with no cotton?
Mark: Generally these styles are produced to meet the consumer demand for super soft stretch style that resemble a vintage jean.
Carved in Blue: And what made you turn to TENCEL™ branded lyocell fibers to do it?
Mark: Styles with 65 percent TENCEL™ Lyocell and no cotton have not only a soft comfortable hand and drape but a sustainable message.
Carved in Blue: What has been the reaction from brands and customers?
Mark: Brands have been reacting very positively to these TENCEL™ lyocell-rich, non-cotton styles and I see growth in this category over the next two years. It definitely supports the soft as well as sustainable story.